Within the Kathmandu Valley, and only 30 minutes drives from Thamel, you will find the beautiful medieval city of Bhaktapur.
In the past the Kathmandu Valley was made up of three Kingdoms, Kathmandu, Lalitpur and Bhaktapur. In fact, during the Malla period, until the second half of the 15th century, Bhaktapur was the capital of Nepal. This ancient Newari city was renowned as a city of culture, temples and craftwork. The same is still true today.
In recent times Lalitpur and Kathmandu have blended into each other although they each have their own Durbar Squares where the original Kings would have lived. And just like its sister cities, Bhaktapur also has its own Durbar Square with its ancient temples and monuments.
Here are some facts about Bhaktapur:
- Pre-earthquake there were 116 heritage monuments
- During the earthquake 67 were completely damaged or destroyed
- During the earthquake 49 suffered partial damage
When you look at your guide book, these are the temples which are now missing:
Taleju Temple, Rameshow Temple, Biswaroopa Temple, Sweet Bhairav Temple, Siddi Ganesh Temple, Siva Mahadev Temple, Degaina Temple and their adjoining sattals.
But there is still much to see in Bhaktapur today!
Unlike Kathmandu Durbar Square, in Bhaktapur the square and surrounding narrow streets are totally closed off to traffic. So taking a walk around this area like stepping back in time. Aside from ancient monuments, here you can see potters at work, see women doing their washing at water spouts and sip tea in a tiny teashop and watch the world go by.
How to reach Bhaktapur from Thamel
Grab a taxi: If you’re lucky you might manage to bargain around $10 to $15 for a one way trip, which is fine if there is 3 or 4 of you.
Private car: This is the most convenient option. It will cost you around $30 for the return trip. Your hotel or any travel agent should be able to arrange this for you.
Public bus: If you are a little more adventurous go to the old bus park (5 minutes’ walk from Durbar Marg, or 15 minutes from Thamel). There are no numbers on the buses but the conductor will shout out the destination or ask any bus staff who will send you to the right place.
Trolley bus: Oh sorry, this has long been discontinued! It used to run between Kathmandu and Bhaktapur and provided an easy and scenic journey. Too bad!
Accommodation: Where to stay in Bhaktapur
There are two reasons for staying overnight in Bhaktapur:
- The entrance fee is a bit on the high side ($15) and covers two days
- Since the old city is closed to traffic it is an experience in itself to walk around in both the evening and in the early morning, the best times to witness people going about their normal lives.
Accommodation prices range from the less expensive to the more luxurious. A couple of examples are, Hotel Heritage and, in the midrange the boutique hotel of Thagu Chhen.
